Vintage Couture Sport Silhouette by Jean Patou
Mooshi has launched into a new vintage couture sewing project to reproduce one of it’s 1960’s vintage couture patterns – Vogue Paris Original 1374 by Patou. The pattern is an interesting blouse and skirt ensemble featuring the hallmarks of Jean Patou’s simple yet elegant silhouettes that he designed in the 1920’s.
The design is in keeping with the spirit of Jean Patou’s invention of the “sports silhouette” – elegant casual clothing. The design features a long slim line skirt, sash and blouse. The blouse has an unusual large but distinct wing collar bearing over the shoulders. Bell shaped long sleeves tone this effect down drawing the eye towards the sashed waist line and box pleat patch pockets which one might commonly associate with safari jackets.
Who is Jean Patou?
Jean Patou is regarded as the inventor of sportswear fashion. He introduced individual sport-orientated fashion designs during the middle part of the 1920’s, and created accessorised outfits for a wide range of sports including aviation, riding, fishing, tennis, gold and yachting among others (www.jeanpatou.com/timeline). We can see his vision continue to influence fashion today through the work of many contemporary fashion designers such as Karl Lagerfeld at the House of Chanel.
This 2014 RTW Resort design takes Patou’s philosophy of sportswear into the realm of androgynous fashion and challenges our perceptions and expectations of fashion’s utility, meaning and formality/casuality. Here Lagerfeld juxtaposes cricket and corporate wear in a “striking” shirt, tie and v-neck sweater ensemble that creates tension between gender identity and the utility, customs and associations of fashion in sport and corporate wear through the concept of the “sports silhouette” for resort wear.
Back to Mooshi’s vintage couture sewing project……
Since opening the envelope of this tattered vintage couture pattern and finding that the blouse pattern pieces were missing (I kid you not), Mooshi can proudly say that we successfully recreated the blouse pattern from scratch! Yes, that’s right. It was very disappointing to discover that the online vintage pattern vendor had not inventoried all the pattern pieces before the pattern was sold. Never mind.
So to our resolve, we managed to reproduce the pieces from the illustrations in the pattern sewing guide! It took quite a few hours to scale each piece to a reasonable size however the effort and skilling up was definitely worth it! Some additional grading to the rescaled pattern resulted in the final toile you see here. We are very pleased with the result and are now looking forward to grading this blouse to other sizes for ready-to-wear and bespoke orders.
If you love this design and would like to know when your size becomes available for a couture order, please subscribe to our web site or follow us on one of our social media sites. Alternatively, if you would love this blouse made in your ready-to-wear or bespoke size before your size becomes available, just contact us to make an inquiry and we’ll draft it to your requirements through our Repro by Mooshi® or Bespoke by Mooshi® service. You can find this Patou pattern in the vintage pattern archive section of the MooshiMode Boutique.
So here are the photos of the bespoke Patou blouse toile! I hope you like the result and invite you to contact us to arrange your very own reproduction of this fabulous vintage couture pattern.