♥ Mooshi’s First Couture Project on Craftsy ♥
Have you ever wanted to see the making of a couture dress using traditional couture techniques? Well, Mooshi is finally launching into a couture project on Craftsy for “The Couture Dress” class with Susan Khalje, a contributing editor of Threads Magazine. I’ll be designing and making a one-of-a-kind vintage inspired bespoke couture dress for this online class under the guidance of Susan.
I’m so excited about this project. I hope you’ll join me on this couture journey to witness first hand the craftsmanship and challenges that go hand-in-hand with the art of couture. To receive updates and follow along with me, please subscribe to my blog here. And please keep reading if you’d like to see my design illustrations and the fabrics I’ll be using….I can’t wait to start!
In this Craftsy class, Susan makes a couture dress using a pattern from Vogue. The dress can be made in a variety of styles. Two varieties are a straight skirt and sleeveless bodice and a full circle skirt with short sleeves. One thing they all have in common is a bias midriff waistband which can be made in a contrasting fabric.
Although I like all the styles I can make from this pattern, I have decided to use my custom fitted bodice and skirt patterns. You can read a post about my experience with drafting the perfect fitting sleeve here.
My reason for choosing a custom pattern over the Vogue pattern is so I can avoid a bias midriff in the bodice as the fabric I have chosen is a sheer 1940’s vintage English voile with lattice embroidery. Isn’t it gorgeous?
Although I could easily alter the commercial pattern to remove the bias midriff or cut the midriff pattern on grain, this would leave me with unsightly seams around the waist, and that is something I want to avoid in a sheer dress. It would also be more rewarding to use my own pattern, which I spent many hours perfecting.
Working with sheer fabric presents some wonderful opportunities and challenges, especially at a couture level. In couture sewing, silk organza is essential to give the garment volume and provide structural support when sewing. For this project I am adding a layer of cream silk satin organza underneath a layer of silk chiffon which will add a subtle shade of colour to the English voile. The chiffon I have chosen is called Irridescent Bridal Chiffon. The colour I have chosen is Mocha – just like the colour of a cappuccino but subtle!
Underneath all of these layers I am adding a lining in a white cotton and silk blend voile. This fabric is light and soft and complements the other fabrics beautifully. It will add a layer of protection and comfort to this dress. I’m still deciding whether to hand dye it with black tea to give it a shade more in keeping with the colour scheme of this dress.
This does sound like a lot of fabric to work with but with careful laying out, marking and cutting, this dress should turn out beautifully. Here are my illustrations, showing the dress in two parts and complete.
So what do you think? Do you love my design and the fabrics I’m using?
What would be your dream vintage dress? Which fashion period would you choose from for your very own vintage inspired couture dress? I’d love to hear your views.
If you are interested in inquiring about my bespoke couture service, please do contact me. I will be happy to provide you with a no obligation quote.